Mining for Americana

Catalina State Park had been recommended to us, we get lots of recommendations! It sits in the foothills of The Santa Catalina Mountains which is a haven for desert plants and wildlife. It’s also the post Christmas delivery rush, chill out destination for Santa Catalina and her husband Claus. (well it is Christmas!) Bikes out and off we went for an explore, there are a lot of trails in the area, we unwittingly, took the toughest, known as the ’50 year trail’. If that’s anything to do with an age limit they should at least rename it to 40… As ever, satisfying when done though, and the view from the high ridge were fabulous. I’d promised myself that I wouldn’t put anymore cacti in the blog but its tricky when that’s the view, sorry! On our return, The Tall one nearly cycled over a rattle snake! That’d be a story eh?!

We also hit a great Nature Trail there which became a Bird Trail which was alive. At times we really are bird nerds! Plenty to see including a Javelina with baby and a couple of Cottontail Rabbits, cute! Too quick for pic!

Kartchner Stare Park is one of Arizona’s best preserved locations. Wonderful caves were discovered in 1974 and the two men who found them kept their find secret for 14 years for fear of them being ruined. Eventually the caves, in a secret arrangement between the land owners and the State Government, it became publicly owned in 1988 and 11 years later, after careful preparation, opened to the public in 1999 as State park. They are meticulous about visitors and controlling numbers and continually reinforce the impact of doing daft things like touching. An American once licked whats called Cave Bacon, it just looks like bacon, moron! Nothing is allowed in, phones, cameras, bags… all to protect the delicate eco system within. It’s not the biggest we’ve been in but was stunning. Pics below are off t’internet. Afterwards, craving fresh air, the trail over the cave mountains gave spectacular views across the distant lands.

In contrast to the serenity of the caves we visited Tombstone. A kitsch as it gets, it’s the home of the famous ‘Gunfight at the OK Corral’ and where Wyatt Earp and Doc Holliday rode the dusty streets and caused trouble in the saloons. Founded in 1879 and built on, you guessed it, mining, it became more known for its wild west activities. It was quite a thriving place though with some great buildings remaining if not ‘done up’. The imposing brick built 1882 Courthouse stands proud.

The only original and intact, and to fair it looked really of its day, is The Bird Cage Theatre where men pulled their pistols, knocked back their shots and took pleasure with ladies of the night. There are 15 small rooms upstairs for that purpose and the original, curtained vestibule at the top of the well worn bar stairs, where no doubt the money changed hands. Behind the main bar is a dark and dusty ‘Theatre’. Only open from 1881-1889, it didn’t survive once the miners left town. When we left Tombstone, we were careful not to run over the local sheriff and deputy, in the street trying to encourage visitors to the fake shoot out!

Continuing on what seems like a mining town trail we headed to Bisbee. Absolutely nothing like Tombstone this is a thriving, artsy town that doesn’t rely on fights or faux. We did the Queen Mine Tour as all goods tourists do (that seem to also be over 50) and it was interesting. If anything, the 82 year old guide Benny, was full of stories from his 19 years down there and the money he made (a lot!) so he brought it to life. From being in an underground mine where they mined up, nearby is The Lavender Mine (we’d call it a Quarry) where they blast big holes in the earth rock, the scale was immense, mining copper in its day, from 1917. It’s not Lavender in colour! We could see why the town was affluent in those days, mines everywhere.

Bisbee is a historic mining town that was once the biggest place between San Francisco and St Louis and it was evident that it had been grand. Many buildings in the town remain and the shop frontages on the main street were gorgeous in design terms. They’ve some fabulous architecture. An early evening stroll, it gets dark early, it was atmospheric and quiet and wonderful.

The following day we wandered again, weaving through all the narrow streets, admiring the street art, finding a Dalai Lama scroll that is so accurate for today, and the cool boutique shops selling all kinds, we ended up with Bisbee Olive Oil and Bisbee Coffee, after long and fun conversations with the proprietors. As the sun lowers the stunning yellow leaves were quite striking on the trees, and some people had clearly called it a day!

A long slog up a hill out of town and we were at Artemezia Foundation Gallery. We were told about it by two fellas at a car park pay booth. Only open 7 months, it is a philanthropic gift to Bisbee in a way, by one of its sons and a self made, lots of money kinda guy. He was at the gallery so we chatted for an age with him, Sloane Bouchever, as down to earth and art passionate as they come. Anyhow, the gallery is brimming with famous, dynamic, modern art pieces from well knowns, Banksy, Damien Hirst, Ai Wei Wei and Swoon to many equally famous but to a degree less known to us. It was great to wander, shake hands with Andy Warhol, watching from the corner. We just hope he has a good security system! http://www.artemeziafoundation.org if interested. (For really clever art, tap and zoom on the close up pinball machine) We loved Bisbee, a fabulous vibe, flourishing town and chatty friendly people (who have a knack of selling you things!)

Leaving Bisbee we took a detour to Dots Diner, located in The Shady Dell. No not a ‘ladies of the night’ place again but a quirky AirBnB where you stay in old vintage trailers, each with its own theme. Superb Americana on show and fun to see the iconic shapes and designs rescued.

Across a couple of roads we found Erie Street. This is a very small suburb of Bisbee, Lowell. The local community have created The Lowell Americana Project as a way to set out and remember a different way of life. The street is full of old vehicles in a state of arrested decay, parked outside buildings that reflect a different era so it feels a bit like a living museum. It’s fantastic! Coffee at The Breakfast Club (an equally fabulous cafe) brings funds to the project. Such a photographers paradise!

Continuing Eastish, we had a drive to the Mexico border at Douglas, well just the horrendously big fence where we could see the cars queuing on the other side. Then kind of NE and into New Mexico, a new state for us. En route we passed the Geronimo Surrender Monument. Typically, the sign there didn’t bear much resemblance to any of the history we’d read about him. Born 1819 the Apache leader set out on a path of resistance against the colonising forces that set to control and oppress the Apache. He became a voluntary prisoner of war, having been persuaded to surrender, dying in 1909 having regretted surrendering to those who don’t keep their word. In a completely random, only in USA kinda thing, Fraggle Rock was just up the road… random eh!