The Eastern Bloc ;-)

Can you tell that we enjoy Nova Scotia and this whole Maritimes Provinces area? Steeped in history that we’ve just about stopped apologising for, we’ve had time to get under the skin of the area. We feel it has a kind of ‘take us as you find us’ vibe, perhaps as it’s not trying to be a massive tourist zone like further West? Who knows, just our observation. We also love the accents, a mash up of Irish, Scottish and French!

Halifax always has something going on at the waterfront. Buskerfest was a curious event. We’d always thought of buskers as musicians, not women who could contort their body into a small glass cube. Hey, if it attracts a crowd?! It was fun to wander the downtown area though taking it all in even if a tad misty…. the pesky maritimes weather again eh! The tall one had a go at being a rear gunner on HMCS Sackville, ‘The Last Corvette’ and I ate a Beaver Tail… that I likened to a roadkill donut 🙂

On the opposite side of the water is Dartmouth. We headed over the bridge and out to East Passage where we’d hoped to get a boat to McNabs island but the only boat that does it, had sprung a leak, or something anyway. The only other boats were booze cruises, not what we were looking for! Instead we hung around the small fishing community/tourist gifts shops with our pic nic, looking at it whistfully! Lawlor Island too is one of the best Osprey nesting habitats around. There were plenty of birds around diving in and out for their lunch too.

Dartmouth itself is a haven for brewpubs it seems. On a Sunday they were busy, where everything else was quiet save for the waterfront which had a carnival atmosphere. A lovely park area, with a small memorial to The Halifax Explosion of 1917. It commemorates all those people watching it happen from the Dartmouth shore, wondering if their loved ones would come home. There’s great views across to the docks and the Halifax waterfront. Dartmouth began in 1749 with a sawmill to provide abundant wood for building Halifax itself and shipbuilding. The Alderney brought 353 English settlers hence all the place names, and when joined by Irish and Scottish settlers with their skills the place thrived. A drink at The Narrows with fabulous live Irish music, tippled off the day. The Halifax Explosion Memorial is a stunning one at night, all lit up. The blast wiped out most of the town and thousands of people sadly perished.

August 5th in Halifax is “Natal Day”, the birth of Halifax. What better way to celebrate but to head back to ‘The Kitchen’ to watch Halifax Wanderers play Vancouver FC. This time a 3-2 win for the boys in blue. Afterwards, a walk downtown harbour side for drinks and food enjoying the vibe of the day. Hiking back to the car, it was a long way back, we had to stop for Rice Hot Dogs, there’s an eclectic food scene here.

Heading out to the North East of Halifax, still Nova Scotia, is Cape Breton, an island with a National Park in its highlands to the north. It is also home to The Cabot Trail. We didn’t venture out in this direction when we first arrived as the weather wouldn’t have meant doing it justice, we were lucky this time. The CabotTrail encircles the island passing through forests and along rugged coastlines. dramatic views and real natural beauty on show. We were staying on the shores of Bras d’Or Lake. Inverness Beach is known for its sea glass but it had been well and truly combed. There are so many crafters using it in their art they get ahead of us tourists. I did a plastic comb instead.

A different type of craft, the Stella Maris Catholic Parish Church was gorgeous, with a ‘last supper alter’. Continuing the drive up the coastline, past the motels and then dotted about houses we arrived at Cabot Trail Highlands National Park, immediately forested and mountainous. We hiked the Skyline Trail to the rugged cliffs at the Gulf of St Lawrence. A long drive back to base to hangout with Dave and Lesley, fellow intrepids in Canada.

The eastern part of the trail is in our view, more spectacular. Not overrun by motels the road hugs the coastline all the way to the northern tip of Cape Breton. Near Ingonish, the rich deep blues of the water, the white tops and a clear horizon, what’s not to love? The route crosses many a small estuary, lake and waterway. Further north and in, the lush green forests and the 40km Aspy Fault, cutting through creating the valley was stunning, and must be glorious in Autumn.

At Cape North the coast was unforgiving and stark as we headed to Meat Cove, named as Moose were butchered there. Now there’s very remote camping and a food truck! Houses scattered along the shoreline have the most amazing outlooks, and could well have housed the Vietnam War Draft Dodgers who hid out in the area (and stayed)

White Point used to be a thriving lobster and crabbing harbour but not these days. Long gone is the lobster factory, church and schoolhouse. The hike out though to views across to Aspy Bay and Cape North was fabulous. waves crashing, sea birds diving and massive crabbing pots.

An invitation to Greg’s parents at Isle Madame was not one we were going to pass up. Spending time with local people has to be one of our favourite ways to explore. Claire and Leo were the most amazing hosts and showed us around the small island that is their home. We took in a local craft market where it was difficult not to buy lots of local food stuffs at Rocky Bay Irish Club and we watched their annual Acadian Festival Parade with excited children desperate for the candy from the floats. We loved the traditions and pride on show in the community.

Having a local couple as a tour guide, we heard fascinating stories and got a real taste for the island. It must be a wonderful place to settle, such gorgeous meandering roads past tiny bays and inlets and a scattering of houses. The Eglise Catholique Norte-Dame-de-l’Assomption is a beautiful and unique church with some serious ceiling art work. It’s a low level coastline full of fishing, small docks and beautiful weathered buildings. A stroll on Pondville Beach, we came across a walrus, ok, a sand sculpture one!