The coastline of Maine is stunning, rugged, tree lined and full of inlets and bays such that it’s actually 3,478 miles long. The general coastline is 228 miles. What it makes for, is a myriad of small communities, nestled in the bays, full of colourful fishing boats bobbing on the blue waters. In addition, there’s plenty of history. As reflected in Boston, this whole area changed hands numerous times, battles were fought and lost and old buildings remain. The Italianate, Goddard Manion, built in 1858 was used by the army while Fort William was busy guarding the shoreline. In a sad state of dilapidation, it was pretty creepy. Portland Head Lighthouse was fabulous though as we wandered the cliff edges it warns sailors of. There’s hundreds of lighthouses, all different, as you’d imagine and plenty of decorative old wooden pot markers.
It turns out the weather in New England isn’t that much different to that of Old England so we found ourselves dodging storms, mist or it was stiflingly hot and humid. We felt very at home given all the pace names on the map! On a hot and humid day we visited a chocolate factory, knowing the air con would be welcome! Oh OK, maybe samples too but it was genuinely to meet Lenny, the giant chocolate moose. From there to a ‘Shell Museum’, the most incredible and world class collection housed in a covered bridge. It’s been there for 30 years, and as shells do, it’s just sitting quietly, waiting to be discovered. Jumping back in the air con car we headed to Portland for an explore via Cape Elizabeth where the views to sea and the coast were as magnificent as the properties dotted along it.
Portland was a seriously important trade hub from 1750’s and the harbour was its economy. Walking through the old town, with the uneven cobbled streets, reminiscent of many a European town and city, at the foot of lots of old port and trade buildings, was wonderful. You could feel the stories oozing from the walls in an odd kind of way. Many of the wooden harbour buildings looked about to fall into the water. In a curious way, the old downtown feels a bit like Covent Garden, lots of history but now full of indie shops, restaurants and bars. Pottery is a big deal it seems, there was plenty! We had food at a converted warehouse, gentrified as usual but the chat with the waitress about the extra ‘kitchen fair wage’ % on the bill was, for us, a big reveal about US culture. “The US is a 3rd World Country with Lipstick on” was a genuine quote and one we won’t forget.
Heading out to explore in a different direction, further south, the coastline is different. Old Orchard Beach had nothing old about it, a bucket & spade resort type affair, motels, T shirt shops etc. It must be a fad, a holiday T shirt? The Inn at Soho Square wasn’t what I remember! Not far away however we found Temple Avenue and yes, you guessed it, ‘temple like churches’ nestled between houses on a lovely leafy street in suburbia.
Passing through Saco and Biddeford we noted The Palace Diner, built in 1927 as a rail car and Maine’s oldest, apparently now a ‘go to’ restaurant. We hope the food is better than the place looks. Biddeford itself is dominated by Pepperell Mill Buildings, clearly a prosperous town in its day, the mills were for textiles and lumber (wood to us!) and were of a scale to be seen. Now all converted into homes, offices etc.
The town of Kennebunkport was the star of the explore though even if it is a wealthy tourist spot. Having a good old giggle at some of the shop windows we had a great wander. Very friendly, we chatted with folks at the tiny boat yard as we watched the boats being put back in the water to make room for the Friday night crowd car parking spaces. There’s an upmarket restaurant and 1974 training schooner now converted to a bar… not being able to park would be an issue!
Kennebunkport’s origins, like many towns along the coast is shipbuilding, dating to 1760 when it churned out small boats, even building it’s own lock to raise the water levels and build larger vessels to compete. By 1918 it had all dwindled and now the lovely old buildings sell stuff to tourists and those who like seasonal cushions. Our route home took us on the Maine equivalent of Pebble Beach’s ’17 mile drive’. It was stunning, there’s no doubt, lots of big houses with fabulous views but we do struggle with knocking down gorgeous, and in proportion to the surroundings, older houses. Why aren’t these enough?
Braving wet and misty weather is just one of those things in Maine. Forest walks and wildlife refuges can thus be quiet. That is until you happen to get the ‘I love your accent’ comment which turns into an hours’ chat. To be fair, this couple were fun and had lots of stories including one relating to his grandfather scoring the goal in the 1-0 ice hockey match US v Germany at The Berlin Olympics, much to Hitlers annoyance. It’s true, we looked it up! The people you meet eh!
Moving further north through Maine we detoured via Falmouth, Yarmouth and ‘Historic’ Bath, to Boothbay. Without knowing, we’d arrived at their ‘Windjammer Days’ Festival. We got the bikes out to ride from the campground and take a look around, heading out through Southport (home again!) The area has ‘salutes’ flags as we call them everywhere, again, the reverence shown to those who have served in the armed forces, coast guard, fire services etc. The beach was a tad nicer than at home! Everything around had a coastal vibe, even the fire station has a lighthouse. Eventually making our way to Boothbay harbour, it was buzzing, lots of visitors and shops with plenty to sell to them.
One of many small harbours, Boothbay, like many was a route for smugglers during prohibition. On the 1901 footbridge across the harbour there’s a small building with a trap door to the boats below, bringing in prohibition liquor. Those boats were probably a tad more discreet that the schooners that came into the harbour though, of all ages, styles and designs, they were works of art, gliding gracefully under full sail. Fabulous to watch!
Pemaquid Point is just past Bristol and is part of the Maine coastline that was battered by two storms earlier this year, lots of damage caused to many old buildings. We cycled out to Colonel Pemaquid State Historic Site to see the ruins, that date back to 1600’s and fights between the French, British and Indigenous Populations (Indians on the signs). Close by is Fort William Henry, stood 1692-96 on the site of the previous Fort Charles, 1677-89. Overlooking the mouth of the Pemaquid River a strategic point, like so many in the area, to defend New England from attack. Destroyed, the English abandoned it in 1729 and it then became a trading post as relations improved. The Fort House was actually a farm house, a nice one eh?!
After a lunch at New Harbour, which involved watching Lobster fishermen unloading their catch, we headed to the Pemaquid Point Lighthouse, dating to 1827. Climbing the tower was tight and we should have realised that on a hot day, the top would be like a greenhouse. Great views of the glassy Atlantic Ocean though and still housing the original Fresnel lens. The Bell Tower however had been trashed by the storms and the waves that crashed over the lighthouse itself. It is being rebuilt, with more solid foundations and timbers. The historical museum was great fun, such a superb array of all things maritime. Afterwards, we needed a sit down, watching the waves crashing on the shore and the buoys bobbing.
Before moving on, further along the coastline, we met a wonderful couple as we were packing up, and as is the way, chatting for such an age we were late leaving the campground. Nobody minded but again, conversations to make us think and reflect. Obama really was a smart guy, some people differ in their opinion but that’s ours, and that’s fine eh?! His observations about the US living in two different realities is becoming the reality and people are moving states to live with more like minded communities… whats next? Remember Texas talking new civil war? Scary times. To lighten the load on our brains we headed to a sculpture park, falling into decay these days but with some fun works by Bernard Langlais. We liked ‘Hands Up Nixon’, The Bears and The Pink lady was charming! We had a play in the workshop, but whose is whose design?
The Curious Adventures of the Cat in the Camper Van 
Another goody…, I liked the spiral stair case pic, and the Obama chat… Go Kamala!
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