Farewell Canada… for now….

As we started to retrace some of our steps and head towards the US border we had some long drives with time to reflect on part one of our Canada explore. Yes, we’ve seen a lot, but still think we’ve only scratched the surface of this magnificent country. What has made it so, in our eyes though, has been the people we’ve met, the friends we’ve made and the fun experiences we’ve had along the way that you’d never find in a guide book. We are so grateful, on so many levels, that we’ve had this experience (and it will continue for part two next year!) Sorry this blog is longer than I thought it’d be!

The drive from Whistler to Juniper Beach camping was a new route for us, if not the destination. Through Pemberton, where people escaping Whistler tourists move to, and Garibaldi, home of the biscuit (probably not!) we picked up The Duffy Lake Highway. What a drive, steep climbs and equally steep descents where we had to watch for hot brakes (we saw a smokin’ RV at the bottom) We took in some gorgeous views, like tall trees in forests shrouded in moss, as we climbed to near 4.5k feet. We were in proper grizzly country it felt, dense and dark along the roadway at times twisting through the narrow valley, with only trees for company (and a cat obvs). Following the Cayoosh Creek all the way, with its gentle rapids, we ended up at Lillooet for a break.

After there it was as though the landscape flicked a switch and became much drier and barren with expanses of of scraped rock, boulders and low shrubs, glaciated then eroded by the rivers cutting through. This is the part where the two railways are opposite sides of the river, and the campsite. We arrived as the sun was going down and we could see the Salmon migrating up stream in the water this time, some trying to jump out as they went.

We decided to stop next at Revelstoke as we’d not done it justice first time around as no camping spaces. To get there involved a return through Salmon Arm and the old highway 1, past Chase. Nothing could prepare us for what we saw to be honest, the roadside evidence of a raging wildfire told enough of the story. Thankfully the town had more or less survived it but the surrounding areas were a mass of charred tree’s and we could see across the Shuswap, the scarred remains of the gorgeous park we’d been in, not that long ago. Not knowing the first thing about wildfires, we were surprised to see swathes of green remaining, within the burned sections, on the mountain sides. What we have learned though, is that the forest are very adept at regrowing, which we’ve also seen. Many species of tree and plant have a built in resilience such as the Scotchpole Pine that, when there’s a fire, the resin in the cones gets so hot, the cone bursts open and the seeds fall. Often we’ve learned, the new forest is denser than the old. At the moment, even 35 year old tree’s seem spindly, perhaps too many vying for the same nutrients and light, time will tell.

Arriving in the Revelstoke we found the town much quieter and it was starting to turn itself over to the ski season, especially the shop windows! A quiet lull it seemed before the tourists return in the snow. Revelstoke has the longest ski run descent in North America and has a lot to offer the cold weather tourist. We don’t fall into that category although the tall one did ice skate as a child before it became a long way to fall down. I’ve yet to see this skating prowess myself, whenever near a Christmas rink it’s never the right time 🙂 We had a wander around the town, admiring the street art before a quiet overpriced drink with Smokey Bear! Planning a ride out, we were later than planned due to chatting with Rita and Barry from Edmonton. You know us, once we get chatting to interesting people….! Barry was keen for yours truly to take a job as an Ice Road Trucker with his company if we wanted to stay in Canada, something to consider eh?! Can you see it?

Eventually away, we covered some ground, enjoying the quietness and the scenery, spotting glaciers we’d not seen first time because of smoke and sitting watching the rapids on the river and the Osprey looking for fish. On the ride back we noted that Jigsaw can ski in this area… wouldn’t that be a gas! Campfire ban being lifted we had an enjoyable evening with Rita and Barry, telling stories of his family who were from London and how much fun ice road truckin’ is…. nothing like the TV programme apparently! It’d be tempting but Nick can’t ride shotgun with me as my road chef, and we quit stressy jobs to spend more time with each other not less!

Revelstoke to Lake Louise in the opposite direction to before, provides new views and clearer ones as no smoke and we could see that there’d already been a light dusting of snow on the mountain tops. Lots of the trees were starting to change colour for autumn which made a long drive more pleasurable. We sometimes wish for a bigger windscreen but not if it has to be replaced! Arriving at the campsite, it was still really busy, lots of rentals around and a fun ‘Wicked Campers’ one. Wicked have campers all over the world and they’re all painted, we’d not seen a political one though and the poor people who had rented it were getting all kinds of stick!

From the snowy peaks of LL, we headed SE to Lethbridge, ducking under the fabulous wildlife bridges across the highways. Scenery changes dramatically again, in reverse, from mountains to the Alberta Prairies. Our destination was a driveway park up at the wonderful Mike and Doug’s place. They insisted we didn’t camp on the driveway so we had a luxurious bed for the night, including the furry one who was doing cat olympics around the house! We met them at Kaslow and really looked forward to meeting them again. You always know immediately when you just click with people. Incredibly generous hosts, we had a dinner at a great place, The Tower Grill, a converted water tower with killer views. Views however that were surpassed by their back yard views over the fields and coulees, enjoyed with a coffee most mornings if we’d lived there! A certain lady is camera shy so we haven’t posted the group selfie!

After a final fling in Canadian Tire, we love that shop, we started heading south again across the prairies with the looming mountains of Waterton National Park ahead of us. Gorgeous big skies, harvested yellow wheat fields and small rivers punctuating the landscape with tiny green coulees. By the end of the drive across the fields, the front of our van resembled a Jackson Pollock artwork, so many colour splats from the bugs that had got in our way. (The yellow is a swine to clean off!)

Maggie and Steve had warned us about Waterton… it’s magic… and we were not disappointed. It’s probably in our top 10 (if we had a top 10 that is) of stops in the whole four months. Our camping was in the heart of Waterton Village below the imposing National Historic Site of ‘The Prince of Wales Hotel’ built in 1927 on the bluff. Originally built as a railway hotel by the Great Northern Railway Co. to lure American tourists during prohibition. It was so named to attract the royal, who didn’t fall for the ruse (later Edward VIII). It looks out over the stunning Waterton Lake and The Peace Park, symbolic of Canada/USA cooperation on managing the park that spans both countries.

On the bikes, we cycled up to Cameron Lake and spotted a red bear… Interestingly this Lake is partly in USA at the tip. The cycle up to it was fascinating. Back in 2017, 40% of the park was lost to wildfire so rather than cycling up a green tree lined road we were in ghost tree territory as I term it. Lots of bleached bark stripped wood or blackened tree trunks standing like spikes above the new growth, changing colour for autumn. The vista was so different but it had it’s own beauty in a way. Eerily so, it was gorgeous in its starkness. Don’t get me wrong, we’d always prefer no wildfires but given 75% (we’ve asked a lot of people their view on %) are naturally caused, mainly by dry lightening, we have to see this as part of life’s cycle for forests. The issue is however, the frequency and number and scale of them as we heat up our planet.

On our way back through the mountainside trails we spotted a vehicle down a track with its window open, it was either a pending drugs trade or a photographer, of positive mind, we opted for the latter so peddled up to see what the craic was. Good we did as after a while chatting with him and a pal who turned up, we saw rutting Elk and a Coyote, all out for their dusk activity. It was nigh on dark when we cycled home, and to top it off, saw another black bear, maybe doing the same, not cycling obviously. (Elk and Coyote pics off Nicks camera)

The following day we cycled a different direction, this time spotting Longhorn Sheep on a road so difficult to miss. A first for us though. A long ride out to Bison view, we only saw Bison bushes but we were treated a Loon and a Bald Eagle. Never having enough of wildlife we ended up again, watching Elk and coyote until it went dark, with the fun and entertaining, Kevin and Dave, new photographer friends.

Our last day in Canada, we had to max it out so headed up Red Rock Parkway again, this time in the van. Waterton has lots of quaint 40’s/50’s cottages (when cottages were cottages) scattered around, built when size didn’t matter. Up at Blakiston Falls we spotted mountain goats high up on the rocks as we hiked through the tree’s and marvelled at the red rocks in the small gorge.

On our way back down the mountain we had the best leaving gift ever from Canada, the two black bears play fighting in the waters of a small pool. (posted the video) It was the most incredible sight, these powerful animals slapping each other and tussling, a bit like two gals fighting over a handbag on a dance floor. Anyway, what better memory to have as we left the area and headed for the border crossing at Chief Mountain. Expecting all kinds of border nonsense, we’d heard stories, it was a breeze and that was it. Just over 8000 miles and 4 months later we left Canada and we’re in the US of A. What will we find there we wonder… lets see!