We thought we’d covered a lot of ground until, just outside Winnipeg, we discovered we were only half way across! Known as The Centre of Canada, we assume in a straight line West East, we had to stop for a selfie and a couple of others photos that would be better for this. Fun place, even if the Canadian Pacific Railway trains were thundering past, with the traffic. Yes Canada is the second biggest country in the world and the thought of it could be overwhelming but we prefer that to underwhelming, and we could always come back for a second trip! We have to admire Canada’s rail infrastructure for freight, the amount of trucks they must keep off the road is incredible. Having said that, the odd campsite nearby the tracks has caused a bit of a rumble in bed at night!
Winnipeg, we were thrilled to be there on Canada Day and experience the goings on. It feels very multicultural and integrated to us, based on what we were seeing. Not sure if it’s architectural star, the Museum of Human Rights has anything to do with it but wow, what a design. We didn’t go in as we felt the fee was discriminatory towards motorhomers on a budget…. Just saying! We did free ‘wander the place’ instead. It is located next to the beautiful Esplanade Riel footbridge and the heavily industrial, lifting rail bridge.
One of the main attractions for visitors is The Forks, an area with a fun vibe, developed as an area for all kinds of cultural activity. On the banks of The Red River where it forks with The Assiniboine it was a pivotal area when settled in 1812 and where Treaty no.1 opened the West to homesteaders. Very much seen as the homeland of The Métis, it was a trading location, the river being the trading highway in effect. Within the area is the gorgeous Oodena Celebration Circle. A monument to the cultural and natural forces that have drawn people West over the years. The armatures mark specific times and dates for stars from Greek mythology and reflects the marking of seasons. (Canadian friends, if my history record is wrong please tell me!)
From The Forks we crossed a park full of Gophers playing around (yep, he took about 100 photos!) to an area called The Exchange District. Often used by Hollywood as a substitute film set for New York it had some wonderful buildings, lots of what are known as ‘ghost murals’ and some amusing aged signs. Slightly off the beaten track and covering quite an area it was a great wander although the heat of the day was exhausting.
On our second day we opted to cycle in (c.18km) and given the temperatures opted to leave a bit later. The tall one even got his legs out for the occasion, and the factor 30 of course! Thankfully it was flat all the way, and an interesting ride all the same, through the fields and the suburbs of Winnipeg. A fantastic free bike valet service meant we could safely park them up. A great initiative we thought, provide a good cycle network as well as a safe facility, it ticks all the boxes for us and we wondered why we’d not seen it elsewhere. Being Canada Day there were a lot of people around, enjoying the weather and the live music, arts entertainment and the eateries were packed. There were lots of red and white outfits, some more striking than others! The sound of Stompin’ Tom Connors tune, “Canada Day up Canada Way” became the earworm of the day! Youtube it!
On our way out was St Boniface Cathedral, a great facade but importantly, the grave of Métis leader Louis Riel. Hung as a traitor in 1885 he is now seen as an important figure in the founding of Manitoba. Not always seen as favourably as today, he was key to Manitoba’s joining of the Canadian Confederation in 1870. The Government of the day didn’t see him as a hero however, as he led rebellions against the Canadian expansion into Métis lands.
We assume Winnipeg is very much a growth city, there are lots of new houses being built just inside the ring road, a tad cookie cutter and dull but at least a positive reflection of somewhere on the up (we assume) We took a detour to Southport, I was missing my home town! Different one obviously, it does have some similarities in that it’s the Canadian Airforce Training Base however it missed the somewhat shabby Victorian charm and the seaside. It just had to be done!
Manitoba is crossable in a day as it’s a very narrow province but for us first timers, we meandered around to explore. Spruce Woods Provincial Park and it’s trees were welcome canopies in the 33degree heat! Geologically interesting, the park has 11 oxbow lakes (who remembers them from O level geography?!) but more fascinating for somewhere in the centre of a land mass, sand dunes. Given the temperatures, an early start was in order to hike to The Devils Punch Bowl (interesting name for a cocktail I think) and The Spirit Sands Trail. It was a super hike through a mix of forests, open prairie lands and the sand dunes. The Devils Punch Bowl was stunning, the blue green waters worth the effort of the climb to view it. 45m deep, it is fed by underground streams which explains the erosion and collapse of some hills to create the unusual forms. It’s a rare place, not quite classed as desert but very arid.
Our last Manitoba stop was Wasagaming and Riding Mountain National Park. Very wet and misty so we headed to the town for coffee to see if it cleared. The town is there for the Park primarily and thus reflects the usual tourist shops but there is a small permanent town too. Cycling through we saw some house designs that we absolutely loved. En route to the park we saw a Black Bear near the side of the road, it crossed ahead of us and went for a game of golf it seemed. Into the forests we were bear bell ready, chiming at every corner just in case. No wildlife or any other people in fact, to be seen along the trails lined with Aspen and we daren’t stop much for the mozzies. Heat and damp or water equals haven and we had it all after the rains.
So that was it for Manitoba, we really enjoyed crossing it, next province, Saskatchewan!
Jigsaw blog spot
Well, it took me a while but I got my first Chipmunk, well actually my count is at three as of pawing this missive. They really don’t want to play when I drop them, they just run off. Maybe it’s the lotion I use to keep my fur soft that puts them off although the Tall One might have something to do with it, standing on my lead. The two of them do keep taking me to fun places though, I heard them talking about Gophers the other day… if I get one of them, it’ll be a…… drum roll…. gonner! Nah, it might play?
The Curious Adventures of the Cat in the Camper Van 