Kouchi Bouchi Levis

Kouchibouguac National Park, affectionately named Kouchi Bouchi by us, is a drive North along New Brunswick’s coastline. This area is very reflective of Acadian culture and we endeavoured to find out more, if not now, on our return this way. Camping in the woods again it was still raining but the solitude and birdsong above the patter of rainfall was heady, we were so lucky. Thankfully, Nicks rain dancing is so bad that it stopped the following day so out we went on the bikes to explore. We rode around the park, 30km without seeing another person. We saw evidence of bears and deer (poop on the trail) but neither showed up for their photo. Our Merlin birding app was on fire as we enjoyed birds being the only sounds, with the swishing of the trees and the bike tyres through mud and gravel. A great place to stay and lucky to miss the holiday season. A Dark Sky Preserve wouldn’t be much fun with noisy kids who should be in bed!

From Kouchibouguac we headed west to a town called Bathurst. The rain gods had been plotting again but undeterred, we had a short hike at Daly Point Reserve. The reward was a Black Cap Chickadee coming to my (empty) hand having flown very close by. What a treat! A walk through the White Cedar corridors of the mixed forest trails took us down to the saltmarshes and the Atlantic’s waters edge.

Another Boondock locally, it’s such a great way to learn. The couple who hosted us, Jean and Francine were Acadian. So much so that Francine’s father was, unbeknown to her until recently, part of an underground Acadian movement, trying to bring the culture back through political means, succeeding in the 1970’s elections. It’s great to see it celebrated heavily in the wider areas. However, there are French Acadian Schools and English schools and even though the health system is ‘Bilingual’ it doesn’t feel like that if you want to have French as your language of choice apparently. It felt akin to segregation. Acadia was the name given to the coastline in1524 by an Italian exploring for the French. When French eventually settled and integrated with local first nation/aboriginal people, they no longer considered themselves French but Acadian. Originally, Acadian culture was prevalent until in the 1700’s, the British, failing to get Acadians to pledge to the Crown, (how embarrassing) in turn shipped many Acadians to other North American colonies. Others hid in the forests with help from the Mi’Kmaq. This explains why there is a strong Acadian cultural scene in New Orleans and Louisiana.

Having taken up too much of our hosts time and Nick getting workshop envy, we left and hit another wet road to Saint Jacques, just north of Edmundston. Travelling the Trans Canada Highway on Route 2, we were dwarfed by the trucks, marvelled at the amount of road infrastructure works going on, and the slight change of scenery, becoming more undulating. Talking of roads, British pot hole moaners, after a ‘severe’ -5deg winter in the UK, shouldn’t think about moving to Canada. Needing (questionable!) the BBC to have ‘breaking news’ about temperatures getting to +30deg and articles on how to keep cool, it’s not for you! Some areas here go from -45 to +45 so if anyone has a reason to complain, the Canadians do! Lightening the mood somewhat, we did pass a place called Saint-Louis-de-Ha! Ha! Yes, true, the only place in the world to have two ! in its name 😊

Continuing West, we went from New Brunswick to Quebec and a new  time zone. Quite a drive as we were heading for Lévis, no not a jeans shop but a place to camp on the other side of the river to Quebec City. En route we stopped at a gorgeous small town called Kamouraska, on the south shore of the St Lawrence. I know a certain lady in Halifax who’d love the craft shops and cafes here! Great artisan town, very well kept and very French in style. Similar to the Southern US states, wrap around porches and balconies and a stunning church. The town was home to the designer of the current Quebec flag, Rene Chalouit, who had it recognised by the government in 1948, the blue and white Fleur-de Lys.

Anyhow, you’ll be glad this is a short blog as Quebec City will be a full one in itself, there was so much to see there and we met more great people who gave us their phone numbers and invited us to call in. We have certainly made an impression, or perhaps it’s a certain feline one, and have, no word of a lie, had to start keeping a book!

The Jigsaw Blog Spot

It’s been pawing down day after day, I’ve been so bored. I make it known that I’m bored too. When I am let out/kicked out, I either go under the cathouse to stay dry, or head out to introduce myself to other cat lovers. As ever though, when I do that, the Tall One and the Feeder One come and spoil my 1 on 1 fussing. Ah well, I can’t complain, there’s been plenty of greenery in the furests they’ve been staying in, although I’m finding the squirrels and birds a bit too quick for me! I understand that in Canada, cats are revered authors, having their own magazine, PawPrint…. That’s got me thinking….

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